Umm el-Jimal, the 'Oasis of Black Stones', is a vast village of basalt houses, towers, churches and Roman barracks, inhabited from Nabataean to Byzantine times and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
You can wander freely among intact doorways. Travellers who hire car & driver in Jordan reach it east of Mafraq, and full package tours to Jordan include it with the desert castles.
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